The dye from the henna (lawsonia inermis) plant is called lawsone. If extracted and isolated from the plant, lawsone is a bright orange color. When henna leaves are harvested, dried, and made into powder, and that powder is subsquently mixed with an acidic liquid to form a paste, the lawsone precursor molecules which exist in the henna is released as an intermediate molecule called an aglycone. This aglycone molecule can attach to keratin—such as that which forms the outer layers of hair stands and skin– and then oxidize to its final, stable form. The result on light hair is anywhere between a bright, fiery copper to a deep auburn.
There is no suchthing as “brown henna,” or “black henna.” Products with suchlabels most likely contain some henna along with additional plant dyepowders, or even synthetic dyes such as para-phenylenediamine (PPD).This goes for both products marketed for hair use as well as for useon the skin. The truth is, pure henna will only color keratin avariation of orange to red-orange.
In order to achievea darker result when using henna, something must be added to thehenna mix, or the hair/skin must be exposed to heat during or afterprocessing.
This article willexplain what can be done to safely and effectively deepenhenna results on hair*, as well as what should not be done.
*Note: The same kinds of rules do not always apply in the same way to henna used on the skin. For more information on henna as body art, read “Henna for Body Art 101: How to Achieve a Dark, Long-Lasting Stain” in BecomingMoonlight.Blog. Please also note that if you live in the United States, the FDA does not allow the use of henna for body art purposes (i.e., coloring the skin). Here are the US FDA regulations for the use of henna for the purpose of body art. These regulations have the force of law: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/products/ucm108569.htm
Do: Mix your henna powder with an acidic fruit juice
For a rich, vibrant result, it is important that the henna paste properly dye-releases. Water alone is not enough and will cause light, brassy results. A mildly acidic liquid allows the maximum release of aglycone molecules by keeping them in a hydrogen-rich environment. Water releases some dye molecules, but cannot keep them in their intermediate state as well. The result from a water-only mix is lighter and often less permanent because dye molecules either have not released from the plant material or have released and oxidized to a final state which cannot bond to keratin; therefore, fewer aglycones are available to color the hair. The dye molecules bond to keratin by way of a Michael Addition, which requires the extra hydrogen ions that exist in an acidic solution.
Leaving an acidic paste at room temperature allows for a slower, and better-controlled release of the maximum amount of aglycones. More dye molecules become available in the paste over time, while the acidity prevents rapid oxidation of those molecules (demise). At room temperature, an acidic henna mix is ready after eight to twelve hours. To learn more about proper dye release, read Chapter Six of the Ancient Sunrise Henna for Hair E-Book and “Henna 101: How to Dye-Release Henna” in this blog.
The liquid does nothave to be overly acidic. A pH of 5.5 is sufficient. Lemon juice,with a pH of 2-3, is very acidic. Lemon juice can be diluted with 1-3parts water for an effective mixing liquid. Undiluted lemon juiceshould be used with care and avoided by those with sensitive skin. Toread more about using lemon juice in henna mixes, read The articletitled “ShouldYou Be Using Lemon Juice In Your Henna Mix?”
Other fruit juicessuch as orange, apple, and cranberry are effective for mixing withhenna. However, cranberry is often recommended for keeping resultslighter and brighter, as the antioxidant content in cranberry juicemay prevent darkening.
Ancient Sunrise® also offers fruit acid powders which can be used with distilled water to create a mildly acidic solution. The fruit acid powder called Malluma Kristalovino is gentle on sensitive skin and can help make results deeper. Nightfall Rose fruit acid powder adds subtle ash tones to henna. Amla fruit acid powder can help a henna/indigo mix bind more effectively to hair for deeper, cooler brunette shades.
Don’t: Mix yourhenna with coffee
Mixing coffee withhenna has been recommended by other sources as a way to deepenresulting colors. This has been proven to be ineffective. Not onlywill adding coffee do very little to the color, but the trans-dermalnature of caffeine will leave a person with jitters or a badheadache. Henna paste needs to be left on for at least three hours.During that time, caffeine would be entering the bloodstream throughthe skin at a rather rapid rate. Additionally, the paste would smellquite unpleasant.
Do: Apply heatduring processing and/or after rinsing
Heat causes theouter cuticle layers of hair strands to open up, thus allowing betterdye penetration. Once you have applied the henna paste to your hairand have wrapped it up, keep your head warm by covering it with athick, knitted cap or a towel. You may also choose to aim a hairdryerat your head for intervals of a few minutes at a time, or sitsomewhere warm and sunny. Heat can both speed up processing time andensure a more saturated result.
After the henna paste has been rinsed out, you may choose to use heat again to speed up the oxidation process. Hennaed hair is naturally lighter and brighter first upon rinsing, and will take several days to a week to settle into its final color. Using a hair dryer or heat styling tools can cause oxidation to occur more quickly. Continual use will darken hennaed hair more and more over time. This darkening is permanent, and can only be reversed with the use of lightening products. Those who wish to avoid causing their hennaed hair to darken should avoid excessive use of heat styling.
Don’t: Mixhenna paste with hot or boiling liquid
Many henna for hairproducts instruct users to mix the powder with hot or boiling water.This technique leads to a rapid release, and subsequent demise, ofthe dye molecule. As stated above, an acidic liquid allows for moreaglycones to be available in the paste at the time of application.The boiling-water method of mixing henna causes lighter, brassierresults. With henna, as many other good things in life, patience iskey.
Do: Apply hennato clean hair
The sebum, dirt,minerals, and product buildup in unwashed hair prevent dye uptake.For the best results, apply henna to hair that has been treated withAncient Sunrise Rainwash mineral treatment followed by a clarifyingshampoo. At the very least, shampoo your hair very well. Skip theconditioner. Particularly oily or resistant hair can be washed with afew drops of dish-washing detergent to ensure it is ready for dyeing.
If you are a no-pooor low-poo person, this does mean you will have to break your regimenjust once if you want the best results. There is just no way aroundit. Baking soda and vinegar, clay, natural herbs, or any otherwashing methods will not remove sebum, dirt, and mineral buildupeffectively enough for the purposes of coloring hair with henna.
Don’t: Add oilsto a henna for hair mix
Just as oils on thehair will prevent effective dye uptake, so will oils added to a hennamix. While some might believe that adding oils or even otheringredients such as milk or yogurt to a henna mix may help, they donot. To read more about what not to add to a henna mix, read Don’tPut Food On Your Head.
Certain types ofessential oils, called “terps” (short for monoterpene alcohols)are added to henna pastes made for body art. When used on skin,“terped” henna results in deep burgundy to near-black stains.However, essential oils should not be used in henna for hair.They can cause the resulting color to be muddy (not darker in adesirable way). In addition, leaving a paste containing essentialoils on the head for an extended period of time will lead toheadaches and scalp irritation.
Do: Add indigofor brunette results
As discussed earlier, the lawsone molecule from henna can provide orange to auburn results when henna plant powder is used alone. In order to achieve brunette tones, another plant dye powder must be added. Indigo plant dye powder contains dye of the same name. This is the dye that was originally used to color denim, and is still used today in many textile traditions. The type of indigo powder used in henna mixes is called vashma indigo. This is made from indigo leaves that have been partially fermented before being dried and powdered. If used on its own on light hair, indigo may color hair grey-blue, sometimes violet, and sometimes a blueish green. The effect is difficult to control and not as permanent as henna.
When used in theright ratios, henna and indigo together will color light hairvirtually any natural brunette shade from medium brown to warm black.Unlike henna, indigo does not need acid and time for dye release. Itmust be mixed with only water just prior to application. To addindigo to henna, mix the powder with distilled water until it is asimilar consistency as the henna paste, then combine it thoroughlywith dye-released henna paste and apply immediately.
To learn more about indigo, read Chapter Five of the Ancient Sunrise Henna for Hair E-book. To learn what henna/indigo ratio is best for your desired outcome, see “Henna for Hair 101: Choosing Your Mix.”
Don’t: Addblack walnut powder, anything claiming to be “Buxus” or “Katam,”or synthetic dyes
Black walnut powder is sometimes mentioned in natural hair care communities for the use of dyeing hair brown. The effect is not as permanent as henna. Additionally, black walnut is known to cause allergic reaction for many people. It is therefore best avoided.
Buxus dioica, alsocalled katam, is a plant that works similarly to indigo when usedwith henna. The result is shades of brunette. However, buxus was onlygrown in and exported from Yemen. The conflict occurring within thecountry has ceased exports and production of buxus and other goods.There are a few vendors which claim to carry buxus. At best, thoseproducts are in all actuality indigo powder labeled as buxus. Atworst, they contain dangerous or ineffective ingredients.
Do not addsynthetic (store-bought or salon) hair dyes to your henna mix. Theyare not compatible and are not meant to be used in the same mixture.Oxidative dyes color the hair through a very different chemicalprocess than henna. Do not try to add other types of dyes, such asfabric dye or food coloring.
You can, however,safely use semi/demi-permanent or oxidative dyes over hair that hasbeen colored with Ancient Sunrise® henna for hair products (and noother henna product), as the plant powders sold by Ancient Sunrise®have been testedin an independent lab to ensure they do not contain mineral saltsor other adulterants which may react with synthetic hair products.
Also Don’t: Usepremixed “henna for hair” products
Some “natural”hair coloring products which promise a brunette or black resultdeclare a combination of henna, indigo, and/or other plantingredients. Because henna and indigo must be prepared separately, any product which blends the plant dye powders together is likely toproduce inferior results.
Some products labeled as henna for hair may also contain azo dyes (such as Red 33) or oxidative dyes (such as PPD). The requirement for ingredients declarations varies from country to country so that some products manufactured outside of the US do not report all of the ingredients which they contain. While such products are not allowed to enter the United States, all too often they slip by. It is best to stick with purchasing pure plant dye powders in separate packages and mixing them yourself. While a pre-mixed product may seem tempting, opting for Ancient Sunrise® products and methods allows you to keep your peace of mind.
Do: Repeatedapplications of henna
While henna does not “coat” the hair, repeated applications will cause your hair to be more saturated with dye each time. We often recommend to only color new hair growth after a person has achieved their desired color. This is because repeated applications will cause darkening over time. However, if you are looking for a deeper, richer color, feel free to reapply henna to the entire length of your hair until you get it to where you like. Unlike with conventional dyes, repeated applications will not damage the hair; in fact, continuing to use henna will condition and strengthen the hair.
Leaving the pastein your hair longer can also contribute to a deeper result. However,only do this if you are not using indigo. Indigo’s dyeing powerbegins to slow after about three hours, after which the henna part ofa henna/indigo mix will continue to color the hair. The result ofleaving a henna/indigo mix on the hair longer than three hours may beredder than desired.
Don’t: Re-hennatoo hastily
Keep in mind that henna’s color naturally deepens over the course of the week following application. If you rinse your henna out and immediately feel that it is just a couple of shades too bright, wait at least a few days before reassessing. You may find that a little bit of time is all you needed to reach your desired shade. Reapplying too quickly may cause you to overshoot, and end up with a final color that is much darker than intended.
